Une salade nicoise . . . or is it?

In February, I dream of sunny outdoor terraces with a salade niçoise, a glass of rosé and view of the Mediterranean. Although Riviera may not have that requisite sunlight and warmth at this time of year, here in South Florida, we do.

At the grocery, I ponder ingredients for a salade niçoise. It sounds easy--lettuce, tomatoes, tuna, tomatoes, local olives and anchovies. But wait. I’ve had some salads with potatoes, green beans and artichokes . . . . Then, I remember one friend insisting no cooked vegetables go into the salad.
What should have been a simple trip to the produce aisle or a market actually creates a dilemma—purist or contemporary salad?

Purists in France defend the language (through the Académie française ), and another group protects the tradition of regional Niçois cooking (Cercle de la Capelina d’Or). After all, this region became a part of France in 1860, and before that time, it was the Comté de Nice.

Purists describe traditional cooking as very simple, focusing on basic ingredients of tomatoes, anchovies, olives and olive oil. Other ingredients are added, according to availability.



The recipe by Julia Childs includes green beans and potatoes in her variation. David Lebovitz, a professional chef and food writer, says never! In fact, he maintains the dressing does not include vinegar, only olive oil and a few herbs. Jacques Medecin, a former mayor of Nice known for his corruption, maintained the traditionalist approach to the salad. . . . .

Given that I am more than 5,000 miles from Nice and not basking at the Café de la Plage or the Crystal, I’m with Julia on this one. Green beans and potatoes, it is, but it’s no longer a salade niçoise.

Traditional salad ingredients—Romain lettuce, small black olives (with pits), tomato wedges, hard-boiled eggs, tuna and a few anchovies. Additional ingredients—red or pepper and small artichokes. Season with olive oil and herbs, or make a vinaigrette. Wine—a rosé from the area.

The Quest for the Ideal Cafe Chair by Jane Tolbert

The quest for the idea café chair on this side of the Atlantic took on a new relevance when Margaret and I decided that would be the sine qua non of birthday presents for Mom’s outside terrace. Two issues had to be resolved—what criteria determine the ideal chair and where to find it! The ideal chair would have to be comfortable and carry an aesthetic as well as survive the Florida elements. These chairs were in every home improvement store in France. Surely we could find them in Florida.


For years on my back porch I have used the quintessential, white plastic stacking chair, a panacea for low budgets and the Florida humidity. But although this chair met the criterion of comfort, it was too ordinary for a birthday present. Wrought iron chairs are prevalent in the States. But we are tired of balancing on these small chairs that have ivy tendrils or a floral motif that cuts into our backs. Then, no one wanted heavy furniture with cushions (available at all home improvement stores) that could not be left outside. Finally, Mom is very particular about what goes on her outside terrace.




French café chairs come in a variety of styles. The picturesque but uncomfortable with slats serve as décor only. No one sits in these. At least, not for long. The antique with no slats and peeling paint make for great photo opportunities in a design magazine. Finally, the oh-so-comfortable woven burgundy and tan plastic on a bamboo frame in which I could sit for hours (and often did). Unfortunately, these would become a serious mildew trap in Florida. But the light weight aluminum resisted most elements.




French home improvement stores like Castrorama or LeRoy Merlin offer furniture that is compact given that space is at a premium. In contrast, the American counterparts sell mainly massive patio furniture, which requires a McMansion and storage for capacious cushions.

An aluminum café set represented what we imagined to be the ideal birthday present for Mom! It was light and resisted most elements—rain, humidity and many falling objects. And we figured the aesthetic would meet Mom’s somewhat stringent criteria. But finding such a set presented another challenge. No one seemed to sell aluminum café furniture. We debated shipping them from France, but the expense and my June 2008 experience with a strike in the Marseille port made us hesitate. Margaret searched the Internet, finally locating one place in Alabama that sold these. They were on backorder , the sales department explained. . . .


We missed Mom’s birthday by several months, but six chairs and one table did arrive in time for the nice fall weather. And Mom liked them so much, at the first sign of rain, she dragged her new café set inside to protect it from the Florida elements.