In February, I dream of sunny outdoor terraces with a salade niçoise, a glass of rosé and view of the Mediterranean. Although Riviera may not have that requisite sunlight and warmth at this time of year, here in South Florida, we do.
At the grocery, I ponder ingredients for a salade niçoise. It sounds easy--lettuce, tomatoes, tuna, tomatoes, local olives and anchovies. But wait. I’ve had some salads with potatoes, green beans and artichokes . . . . Then, I remember one friend insisting no cooked vegetables go into the salad.
What should have been a simple trip to the produce aisle or a market actually creates a dilemma—purist or contemporary salad?
Purists in France defend the language (through the Académie française ), and another group protects the tradition of regional Niçois cooking (Cercle de la Capelina d’Or). After all, this region became a part of France in 1860, and before that time, it was the Comté de Nice.
Purists describe traditional cooking as very simple, focusing on basic ingredients of tomatoes, anchovies, olives and olive oil. Other ingredients are added, according to availability.
The recipe by Julia Childs includes green beans and potatoes in her variation. David Lebovitz, a professional chef and food writer, says never! In fact, he maintains the dressing does not include vinegar, only olive oil and a few herbs. Jacques Medecin, a former mayor of Nice known for his corruption, maintained the traditionalist approach to the salad. . . . .
Given that I am more than 5,000 miles from Nice and not basking at the Café de la Plage or the Crystal, I’m with Julia on this one. Green beans and potatoes, it is, but it’s no longer a salade niçoise.
Traditional salad ingredients—Romain lettuce, small black olives (with pits), tomato wedges, hard-boiled eggs, tuna and a few anchovies. Additional ingredients—red or pepper and small artichokes. Season with olive oil and herbs, or make a vinaigrette. Wine—a rosé from the area.
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