This image is taken from the archives of the BN available at www.gallica.fr.
Years ago, I visited Nice at the time of carnival. Numerous decorations-- including a dancing ayatollah, which was quickly dismantled—lined the Place Massena. The figures on the floats—often called the “grosses têtes,” or big heads-- presented burlesque caricatures with bulging eyes, bright colors that emphasized a theme. In the excitement of my frantic picture taking (it was my first carnival), my purse “disappeared,” but my spirits remained high with the energy created by this “monde a l’envers.”
Some years later, I gained another perspective, the behind-the-scene preparations for the carnival. I accompanied an Opio pre-school class to a large warehouse where workers assembled the “grosses têtes.” This carnival work was something of a family tradition, passed down for generations, from father to son. Back at the school in Opio, parents and teachers supervised as children constructed their own masks. Although some disappointments occurred--notably, the shrinking of the papier mâché heads that made the masks difficult or impossible to wear-- on Mardi Gras, a procession of school kids wound through the streets of Opio, dressed in their costumes and elaborate masks and brandishing noise-makers that ranged from small horns to kitchenware and a few antique drums loaned by Ninon or Michel from their antique store.
Although historically carnivals have appealed to all social classes, the Nice carnival has catered increasingly to tourism. The expense of tickets for the grandstands and fenced areas (between 10 and 40 euros) prevents many of the locals from attending the main events such as the Battle of Flowers. However, the floats can still be seen outside of scheduled events.
Local attempts to continue a 20-year tradition of a small carnival in Nice have met with resistance. Permission to hold the independent “ Carnaval de Saint Roch has been denied due to the violence associated with the past year’s event. Comments posted in the Nice Matin on Feb. 2, 2010, provide some insight into the tradition. Most writers complained about the lack of spontaneity of the organized carnival, the loss of the Niçois tradition under the guise of security concerns. As AlainB writes (Feb. 10, 2010), “We live in a time of standardization, drab and very disciplined.” ProvenPat also points to the “exclusion” of the Niçois from local events and the loss of folklore with the disappearance of the popular street carnivals.
Carnivals (or Mardi Gras celebrations) are known for the pulsating atmosphere, lavish decorations and excess that precedes the fasting (or giving up certain foods) associated with Lent. Historically, the carnival provided the “monde à l’envers,” or an upsid- down world in which roles were reversed (jesters became king for a day in the Fête des Fous). It’s no surprise that many of these activites were curtailed just because of the rowdy behavior of participants or the inclination to ridicule officials.
The problems of commercialization or loss of a tradition aside, this year’s carnival has been centered on an ecological theme—the introduction of a sustainable way of thinking (the blue planet) and the end of the old ways (the dinosaur). The carnival will bring attention to the problems faced by the planet, and many of its props are made with recyclable materials.
This year, I can travel only virtually to the carnival. I will miss the energy of large, festive crowds (but will not lose my purse) but not the logistics of getting to the carnival. I can ponder the pros and cons of commercialization and tourism to the detriment of folklore and popular events. I can think about the way in which the carnival brings life into the winter season in Nice (or other cities like New Orleans). So much to think about.
I wonder what the kids in Opio did this year? Did they march the streets in their masks with their noisemakers? Let’s hope that the spirit of tradition lives on in the smaller festivals that enable children to experience a carnival first hand.
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I probably won't make the Nice carnival next year, but I would like to see New Orleans.
To see the images of the Nice carnival, please visit the following sites:
www.nicematin.fr (for a photo gallery) or http://www.nicecarnaval.com/carnaval/galerie-photo-corso-carnavalesque.php (the official carnival site).
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