For Argentine tango, I need more than stilettos and experience. . . .

Argentine tango is a fascinating dance that requires skill in technique, musicality, a relationship with a partner (at least for periods of three to six minutes) as well as an understanding of a non-verbal code such as the cabeceo or invitation to dance.

Women may sit on opposite sides of the room from the men at a milonga (tango dance). At the break (cortina) between tandas ( a group of three to five songs), we scan the men, attempting to make eye contact (without appearing to do so) to show our interest in dancing. From the opposite side of the room, the men, who have been watching dancers, now nod slightly to issue an invitation to dance. The targeted female might look away (a refusal) or she might sustain eye contact and rise when her tanguero approaches (an acceptance).

Like many aspects of Argentine tango, the cabeceo is subtle, perceptible to the couple involved. The invitation. The acceptance or refusal. Only the man and woman know.

At one of my first milongas in France, the women stopped talking during the cortina. They directed their looks toward the men. I made eye contact (I thought) and then stood up to accept an invitation only to realize it was for the woman behind, who also stood.

Because I am near sighted, I cannot see the cabeceo across the room. And I cannot dance in glasses without injuring my partner with pointy frames when our faces touch. Friends suggested I wear my glasses for the cabeceo but remove them for close embrace. I hope to avoid a mistaken cabeceo and worse, to miss an opportunity to dance altogether.

It is just a dance after all, but it is a dance of subtleties. . . . Perhaps that is part of its attraction.

Musings on Superbowl v. Downton Abbey – Do you mind if I change channels?

What some media write up as a match between two coaching brothers, others describe as a match between two programs—sports or the popular Downton Abbey on PBS. On the home front, one of my childhood friends in Virginia (a Downton Abbey fan) emails me, “No Beyonce in this house. ” Then my daughter texts to ask if I realize I will be visiting South Beach on Super Bowl Sunday.

But I go to South Beach (Miami) anyway. I plan to sit through the first half of the game then leave in time to watch Downton Abbey in my hotel.

We walk to Ocean Drive. Surprise, no aggressive restaurant hostesses promote lunch-dinner or drink specials. Big screen TVs blare from café terraces. Crowds pack the tables. One or two restaurants make an effort to attract the non-bowl tourists, by playing music or having a guitarist. The Clevelander, which wraps around a corner on Ocean Drive, has standing room only (beer from the bar at $9 and from the bathing suit-clad hostess, $6). With all the people and noise, is anyone actually watching the game? Will they notice if I change channels?

Although I plan to watch the Super Bowl with my daughter and her boyfriend until halftime (really!) , I leave after a few minutes and head for Lincoln Road, which has few pedestrians and diners on this beautiful Sunday evening.


At DeLuca’s, where one of the owner’s explains it is not a “sports bar,” I try a pinot grigio (Torre di Luna) along with bruschetta. When the owner offers me another glass, I decline. After all, I must make it back for Downton Abbey.

Maybe next year. . .

Wanted: Frenchman with Crepe Pan - for Feb. 2 Chandeleur

DATELINE – My kitchen. The Chandeleur, Feb. 2, is the day for making crepes in France. I’ve often seen the man of the household make and flip crepes. But where are these Frenchmen with crepe pans when you need them!

My first experience was in Fontainebleau in the kitchen of some friends and their three small children. Pierre donned the apron and flipped crepes. According to their tradition, you turn your back to the armoire, and with one hand, you flip the crepe on the top while holding a gold coin in the other hand. I think we bypassed that part of tradition because of the obvious mess (you leave the crepe on the armoire for a year) and the lack of a gold piece. Just making the crepes on that day must have brought prosperity.

Here is the recipe I use for making crepes. The first crepe is usually a mess. You do need to stand over a hot skill and watch the crepes carefully. It’s a little like making turbo-charged pancakes.

CREPES - 250 g. farine / approx. 2 cups of flour - 3 oeufs / 3 eggs - sel / pinch of salt - 2 tblps. Huile / 2 TBLSP. Oil - zeste de citron / zest of lemon (chopped) - 1 verre de lait / 1 cup of milk 1 verre d’eau / 1 cup of water Put the flour in a bowl. Add three beaten eggs and salt. Next, add the oil then very slowly, the milk and water. The lemon zest is optional (but improves the flavor for dessert crepes). Allow your mixture to rest at room temperature (covered with a towel) for two hours.

I left mine in the refrigerator overnight then put it at room temperature for two hours. Before you cook your crepes, add more water to make the batter a little thinner. The crepe pan should be shallow and also light (so you can flip the crepes). The oil needs to be hot. I usually add a little oil to the pan after every other crepe. When crepes are done, sprinkle with sugar and roll (while hot) or add chocolate or Nutella or just wait until they cool and add fruit. My batter came out a bit lumpy so I used a mixer on low speed. From the photo, you can see the crepes turned out a little thick. I should have added more water. But hey, they are still good.

Until I find the Frenchman with the crepe pan, I’ll have to use my own heavier skillet.

Eight Years in Coming. . . . Shelf Liner, that is

Members of my family are busy at work on house projects. The New Englanders have very bold aqua wooden chairs in their gray dining room. The French contingent has used fuschia accents against the backdrop of a white and black living room. When I moved to my current location nearly eight years ago, I was not so bold or courageous and instead painted the interior of my house in a “realtor off white,” a color that does not offend prospective buyers. Most of the furnishings are bronze or brown. Not at all bold.

The one place I could go bold is in shelf liner, which I planned to replace eight years ago when I moved in. At the time, I told myself the shelf liner could wait, given that I’d redo my kitchen. So the circa 1968 shelf liner remained. It has remained while I had tenants living in the house. Now, that I am back in my house, I am motivated. But Home Depot, Lowes, Target and other local stores offer only affordable monotone or conservative patterns. Maybe if I checked online. . . . but another few months, maybe years might go by before I replace my circa 1968 shelf paper. Maybe I should wait until I redo my kitchen. . . . And for now just go with colorful pillows and lamps.

Un pause café - a coffee break intermission!

Join me for a coffee a bit later on the Rue Bijou.

West of Calle Ocho and into the Glades

I’m embarrassed to admit it. After all these years, I finally visited the Everglades. The trip was prompted by my daughter’s boyfriend, who wanted to see some alligators, and my sister, an artist, who has explored and sketched in many of the state’s natural parks.

Boardwalk at Oasis Visitor Center - We began our travels at La Carreta, a Cuban restaurant on Calle Ocho--café con leche, Cuban toast and omelets—then headed for Loop Road in the Big Cypress National Preserve. It’s a straight shoot along Southwest Eighth Street (US 41), 50 miles west of the Miami business district. Past forests of dead melaluca trees, planted years ago to soak up swampy waters and now eradicated. Past the Miccosukee casino and tourist attractions, advertising airboat tours or fried gator meat.

Alligators at Oasis Visitor Center - The boardwalk at the Oasis Visitor Center extends above a canal where large alligators sun and water birds seek food. Nearby is Loop Road, a narrow, 24-mile limerock road with culverts, which allow water to flow. Alligators lay on the banks. Herons, ibis and wood stork moved silently through these cypress swamps. Anhinga, perched on branches, spread their wings. Cypress have lost their leaves. Tufts of air plants, some with a bromeliad flower, cover tree trunks.

Cypress and air plants on Loop Road, Big Cypress National Preserve - We were cautious—gators move quickly and silently. But at one point my sister decided to go down the bank to put her hand in the clear waters. A loud thrashing! She had not slipped but an alligator emerged from the culvert, churning waters with his tail. Defending territory or seeking prey?

Juvenile ibis with brown markings on Loop Road - On our return to Miami, we sampled gator nuggets—chewy and only slightly reminiscent of chicken but not particularly appetizing. The scenery was spectacular, but we had had enough gators for one day.

Drainage Ditch Jewels

Snowy Egret If you walk or bike, you have time to appreciate those “jewels” of drainage ditches. Just along a short segment of Eber Road in Melbourne (Fla.), herons, egrets, ducks, sandhill cranes and a wood stork flock here.

Great Blue Heron I won’t say that water birds thrive in our “created” environment. Runoff from roads and residential and commercial lawns pollute waterways with oils, grease, metals, nitrogen and phosphorus (from fertilizers) and sediment.

Lance-Leafed arrowhead with spiderwebs Communities are taking more action. An increasing number of retention ponds in Melbourne have vegetative buffers that filter many toxic products and improve water quality. Still, numerous opportunities exist. Along NASA Boulevard, high-tech corporations could work toward environmental protection by creating shoreline buffers that reduce the amount of pollutants that enter waterways. Clean waters will attract more wildlife and make the workspace sustainable.

Crane Creek

An opportunity for more sustainable practices . . . . Note: If I have inaccurately identified flora or fauna, please let me know.