West of Calle Ocho and into the Glades

I’m embarrassed to admit it. After all these years, I finally visited the Everglades. The trip was prompted by my daughter’s boyfriend, who wanted to see some alligators, and my sister, an artist, who has explored and sketched in many of the state’s natural parks.

Boardwalk at Oasis Visitor Center - We began our travels at La Carreta, a Cuban restaurant on Calle Ocho--café con leche, Cuban toast and omelets—then headed for Loop Road in the Big Cypress National Preserve. It’s a straight shoot along Southwest Eighth Street (US 41), 50 miles west of the Miami business district. Past forests of dead melaluca trees, planted years ago to soak up swampy waters and now eradicated. Past the Miccosukee casino and tourist attractions, advertising airboat tours or fried gator meat.

Alligators at Oasis Visitor Center - The boardwalk at the Oasis Visitor Center extends above a canal where large alligators sun and water birds seek food. Nearby is Loop Road, a narrow, 24-mile limerock road with culverts, which allow water to flow. Alligators lay on the banks. Herons, ibis and wood stork moved silently through these cypress swamps. Anhinga, perched on branches, spread their wings. Cypress have lost their leaves. Tufts of air plants, some with a bromeliad flower, cover tree trunks.

Cypress and air plants on Loop Road, Big Cypress National Preserve - We were cautious—gators move quickly and silently. But at one point my sister decided to go down the bank to put her hand in the clear waters. A loud thrashing! She had not slipped but an alligator emerged from the culvert, churning waters with his tail. Defending territory or seeking prey?

Juvenile ibis with brown markings on Loop Road - On our return to Miami, we sampled gator nuggets—chewy and only slightly reminiscent of chicken but not particularly appetizing. The scenery was spectacular, but we had had enough gators for one day.